Welcome to the so-called dead camel camp. In previous years, there have been lots of dead camels nearby. Today, we’ve only found two near our camp site. Having said that, we’ve already seen lots of dead camels, cows and donkeys at the side of the road while cycling through Sudan. I just never bothered to get off my bike in order to take a photo.

Allam, our Sudanese staff, gave us a talk about Sudan today. When people get married, the husband has to pay for the bride. In Southern Sudan, the taller the woman, the higher the price. Well, by that measure, I should be the most expensive woman in our group.

After dinner, a few of us joined Allam to visit a local village. The people invited us into their house, and offered us tea as well as dates. They were very friendly and welcoming, and Allam translated for us. The lady of the house has 7 children. One of her sons just got married.

She looks like a grandmother (though very handsome features). We asked how old she was (after confirming with Allam that this wouldn’t be impolite). “People here don’t know their age,” Allam replied, but asked her nevertheless. Indeed, the woman didn’t know. She estimated that she was 37.

“Do you have kids?” she asked each of us. “Is she your wife?” she asked Paul with regards to me, and Allam denied. “Are you married?”, one of her sons then wanted to know of me. Finally, the woman’s husband and owner of the house also joined us. “Are you married?” he asked me again. I joked and asked how many camels I’d be worth.—”5 camels,” because I’m quite old already, he explained to Allam, difficult to find a husband at my age. I must have been worth a small camel farm in my younger days. 🙂

Stage 15: Dongola – Dead Camel Camp (Sudan), 143km

Road & traffic condition:

Crazy bus drivers overtaking us at crazy speed, at times make us move outside of the road. Tarmac still good, and nice tailwind.

Weather:

We’re blessed with a cold wave right now in Sudan. Been shivering all morning, and my fingers took 30km of riding to warm up again, but that’s definitely preferable to the heat. It’s comfortably hot during the day, and not hot at all while cycling due to the wind.

Culinary highlights:

Spaghetti bolognese and salad . . .

. . . followed by pineapple pie

Group highlights:

Visiting the home of the Sudanese family (for some of us), drinking tea on the way with locals for others who stopped in villages along the way.

Personal highlights:

Learning that I’m worth 5 camels!